Project Pajero
Where are we now!
Day 44 to 50 10-16 October 2009
Having arrived in Broome and checking out the sunset on Cable Beach and after listening to my rants and raves about how beautiful Cape Leveque is, our grey nomads decided to do a flying visit to CL – in one day!
Anyone who has been to Cape Leveque will know that it is not the type of place that you just drop into, you really have to spend a couple of days at least soaking up the relaxed atmosphere of this beautiful sea side location. So it will come as no surprise to hear that Tony declared their trip to Cape Leveque a little disappointing. However, we do now have a road update, what used to be 200 kilometres of sand, red dirt and for some a nightmare drive now consists of the first 15 kilometres being sealed, then 92 k’s of the traditional sandy red earth graded to well below the surrounding flood plain (no wonder the road floods in the wet season, it is virtually a man made river bed) then from Beagle Bay to Cape Leveque the road is sealed again. So the 200 k’s is not as daunting as it once was, just as well for our Grey Nomads who were going up and back in one day!
They dropped into the church at Beagle Bay to see the alter made of Mother of Pearl shell, but alas, it was Sunday and the church was in use. Pressing onto Cape Leveque Tony was less inspired by the place when he found you had to pay a $10 per vehicle entry fee, he is obviously not used to the fees we have to pay to enter aboriginal land. They visited One Arm Point but they certainly did not have the time to relax and watch the sunset from the beach with those fantastic red glowing rocks behind, I mentioned this and Tony said “We can see that at Broome out on the pint” Oh well, I tried.
Back in Broome that afternoon (even their caravan park neighbour made a comment about their quick visit to CL), they took more time to investigate China town, the cemetery, the pearl luggers and another sunset on Cable Beach.
After two days here it was time to move on, I’m beginning to think they are running from the law, they move on so quick. Down the highway to Barn Hill, which they did like, described as Really Nice by Carol. For $20 they had an unpowered site with an ocean view, they also had the choice of a 4 amp powered site (not enough to drive your toaster) for $24 or if you wanted toast then those sites cost $28 per night. Tony tells me he spotted some unusual shapes on the beach (OK, I’m not sure where there is going??) so he walked down to the beach to find Great Ocean road apostle style rocks scattered along the beach, he was quite enthusiastic over the phone about these (unusual for Tony to be enthusiastic and show it) and said “wait until you see the photos” BTW, we now have all photos up to Broome on the Gallery section of www.4wd.net.au.
They stopped off briefly in Port Hedland, where Carol said it would be a nice town except for the ore loading facility (there would be no town if there was no ore loading facility) Arrrhh but wait, there is more to PH than just ore loading, there are huge salt evaporation works, hundreds of acres of land are flooded by the sea, then allowed to evaporate leaving the salt behind, some bloke goes around and sweeps it into a salt shaker and sells it to us east coasters – true!
From Port Hedland they continued after lunch (salty sandwiches apparently) along the inland road towards Newman making a bush camp in a road side rest area near Auski Roadhouse. They had entered the Pilbara region where the rocks are red from the iron ore, in fact some are chocolate from a lot of iron ore, stunning vistas all around. The next morning with the caravan in tow, they made a bee line for Karijini NP, checking in at the million dollar visitors centre, and then being directed to Dales camp ground where their friendly camp host waited (or should I say lay in waiting). “you will park where I say” , so for $7 per night, they did not get their choice of campsites, there were only long drop dunnies, scattered few and far around the one way circuit camping area and there was little shade in blistering heat. Oh yes, there was a shower – one shower – 8 kilometres back at the Visitor’s Centre, which cost another $2 if you wished to use it and it was only open from 9am to 4pm, and as Tony found, they lock the amenities sharp at 4pm, even if you are still in them (at the Visitor Centre) fortunately Carol caught the Ranger before she left and asked for her husband to be released from what could have been a long night on his own in a tiled room.
OK, so we’ve got the grumpy bit out of the way, because the rest of their story at Karijini is fantastic, I rate this place as the most scenic I have seen and I believe Tony & Carol agree. There is a lot of walking involved and if you are not fit, don’t go. T&C took the walk down into Dales gorge to start with, all walks entail going down into gorges via lots of steps and then walking along river beds, sometimes in the water and scrambling over rocks and then climbing back up out of the gorge.
They walked the full length of Dales Gorge from the Fern pool to Circular pool, enjoying a swim at both. Then they set off to Joffree Gorge a short drive away. There are magnificent lookouts into this deep red gouges in the land that is normally covered in yellow Spinifex. At Knox gorge they took the very difficult walk down a steep rocky scree to the base of the gorge, Tony actually rated this one as his favourite. Heading over to Weano gorge and Hancock gorge they did the Handrail gorge and the Spider Walker (you have to spread arms and legs like a spider to clamber between the cleft in the gorge above rushing water). These are magnificent locations with the colours of the rock and the sky and the water all being incredible.
After two days at Karijini they hooked up the van and headed the short distance into Tom Price and finally had what most of us might call a relaxing day of shopping, sitting through a 20 min video to get their permit to drive beside the railway line and then finished off Friday 16 October with a sunset view from the top of Mt Nameless behind the Caravan Park overlooking tom Price. Tony was excited, he had to use low range for the first time in the Pajero to climb the steep grade up Mt Nameless. The weather has remained hot through the day in the mid 30’s but at night it is cooling down and they are even using a blanket once more, much better for sleeping.
Tony reports that the rear tyres are wearing very fast, still no cuts etc, but it appears they have lost about half of their tread, not a good sign, at this rate they won’t last the trip. Also, the ARB fridge has started to lose power for some reason, it appears to be in the power connection although nothing appears to be lose, something for them to keep an eye on. Otherwise, all the rest of the gear is working well. 50 days into their big trip, they have passed the half way point.
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